| Ooops,
we failed to get pictures of our moisture testing
that should be performed prior to any start. For
more on the subject check our pages on moisture
testing and acclimation. It's important to note,
manufacturers have different guidelines, with
acclimation being another. Always consult the
manufacturers specifications before starting any
hardwood floor project.
Starting The Installation - Underlayment
Types
will vary from one manufacturer to the next and it
is important to follow specifications set forth by
the
manufacturer. Some manufacturers will void a
warranty if their products are not used, regardless
of whether or not it was the determining factor of a
failure. In this case a 3 in 1 foam underlayment
supplied by Bruce is used. On one side we have the
moisture barrier that is laid on the concrete slab.
The reverse side is the foam cushioning, with the
third element being peel off sticky tape to attach
each row together.
Roll out the underlayment as shown in the image to
the right and lap the sides up the wall a few inches
to provide the moisture barrier. Cut any excess off
with a utility knife. This underlayment is provided
with sticky removable tape, thereby not requiring
taping of the seams. Watch carefully if you have the
right side up and the other one down. We discovered
the underlayment should be flipped over after it is
rolled out. Why? We've found some of Bruce's ideas
questionable to say the least.
Starting The Installation
Floating floors are probably one of the hardest
installations to start as the boards want to move
around on
you in the starting area. It's imperative the first
few rows be straight and gap free. Otherwise the
gaps will repeat across the entire layout. Preferred
starting areas should be along the longest parallel
wall of the layout. It's also suggested to find a
starting area that will require no or very little
backfill¹
of the layout.
Once we've found to be aligned and square with the
rest of the layout (plus or minus 3/8") it's time to
begin. Working from left to right stagger the
starting boards as far apart as possible; 18-24
inches will suffice. By placing scraps or wedges in
our expansion areas this should keep the first few
rows from moving apart of one another.
Applying The Glue
Once
again follow the manufacturers specifications. In
this case, Bruce requires a bead of glue on the top
of
the tongue of all boards. We are unsure of the
reasoning as other manufacturers call for filling
the groove or partially filling. Frankly this method
requires more cleanup as you go because a good
portion of the glue squeezes out when the boards are
tapped into place. It reminds us of glued laminate
installations that would require some work to keep
clean of glue residue and haze. Keep a few clean
damp rags aside, rinse with water and squeeze out
often . |
