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Now that we have your
attention in what tools to use on the
previous page, it's time to get that job
started. If you've landed on our site with
this page there are many preparation aspects
included at the links on the bottom of the
page.
Find The Starting
Area
Opinions will vary
where to start. Most call for starting on
the longest parallel exterior wall. Let's
simplify that
and say
longest parallel wall. Why use this
reference? It will help keep the
installation straighter for one thing.
For example, our
illustration to the right show three
possible areas of starting. #1 is the best
choice to avoid any complicated areas that
need lining up as #2 and # 3 would. By the
way our installation will run parallel to
the blue control line and we will be
starting off the # 1 wall line.
What's A Control
Line?
A control line is a
line that is established by measuring out
from wall #1. The purpose is to check for
square ness with a tape measure to other
areas of the layout. Essentially you want to
set the line in or near the center of the
layout should the installation go into other
rooms. A control line is not necessary if
the job only calls for one square or
rectangular room.
Use a general number
to measure off wall #1. We'll use 96 inches
in this case because it nears the center of
the area. Measure from two areas off wall #1
and mark. Draw a chalk line with a helper
and snap where the two areas are marked.
Once the line is set we can check if the
starting area is parallel against two walls
in the starting room.
Transfer Control
Line. Check Other Areas
We'll now need to
check how the installation may fall into the
other rooms should we use the first control
line.
A control line is basically temporary in
this case if the other walls are out of
square. There are two doorways that run off
the main room. Establish a measurement that
will allow another control line to run
parallel and run though the two door
openings of the other rooms.
At this point once two
marks are set and line snapped on the
subfloor. Measure for square ness from the
new line to wall # 2 and 3. If all the
parallel areas look square there will be no
need to adjust anything; simply start your
installation from wall #1.
Shouldn't I Have
Rolled Out The Tar Paper First?
Good point, it would
have been useful to layout the underlayment
first so we wouldn't have to go through
these steps again. The control line serves
another purpose after beginning the
installation, which we'll get into later.
When rolling out your underlayment opinions
vary on whether or not it should be
overlapped or not.
Some claim if it is
overlapped one can actually see a
telegraphing effect after the floor is
installed. In other words, small rises occur
every 45 inches where the two layers
overlap. Personally I never paid attention
to it, and the National Wood Flooring
Association calls for overlapping anyway.
Rolling Out the
Underlayment
We also have a section
on using rosin paper for those that may have
heard this is the way to go. Felt
paper can be messy, because it is the same
stuff roofers use when drying in a roof,
or before the shingles go on. We want to
begin rolling out the paper parallel to wall
#1. When rolling, start at one end and
unroll to the other while keeping about 12
inches away from the wall. This will keep
the roll from blackening your freshly
painted walls.
Once you're near the
end, cut off enough for it to cover, remove
the roll and push the long sheet into place
or butted to the wall and trim on both ends
with a utility knife. Repeat these steps
across the room, while stapling the
underlayment to the subfloor. No need to
overdo the staples. All we want to do is
keep it stationary so our control line stays
put. You could finish off the room and let
the other areas go until you're ready |
