Finding The Starting Area - Page Two

Now that we have your attention in what tools to use on the previous page, it's time to get that job started. If you've landed on our site with this page there are many preparation aspects included at the links on the bottom.

Find The Starting Area

Opinions will vary where to start. Most call for starting on the longest parallel exterior wall. Let's simplify that and say longest parallel wall. Why use this reference? It will help keep Measuring for control lines the installation straighter for one thing.

For example, our illustration to the right shows three possible areas of starting. #1 is the best choice to avoid any complicated areas that need lining up as #2 and # 3 would. By the way, our installation will run parallel to the blue control line and we will be starting off the # 1 wall line.

What's A Control Line?

A control line is a line that is established by measuring out from wall #1. The purpose is to check for square ness with a tape measure to other areas of the layout. Essentially you want to set the line in or near the center of the layout should the installation go into other rooms. A control line is not necessary if the job only calls for one square or rectangular room.

Use a general number to measure off wall #1. We'll use 96 inches in this case because it nears the center of the area. Measure from two areas off wall #1 and mark. Draw a chalk line with a helper and snap where the two areas are marked. Once the line is set we can check if the starting area is parallel against two walls in the starting room.

Transfer Control Line. Check Other Areas

We'll now need to check how the installation may fall into the other rooms should we use the first control line. A control line is basically temporary in this case if the other walls are Check squareness against other walls out of square. There are two doorways that run off the main room. Establish a measurement that will allow another control line to run parallel and run though the two door openings of the other rooms.

At this point once two marks are set and line snapped on the subfloor. Measure for square ness from the new line to wall # 2 and 3. If all the parallel areas look square there will be no need to adjust anything; simply start your installation from wall #1.

Shouldn't I Have Rolled Out The Tar Paper First?

Good point. It would have been useful to layout the underlayment first so we wouldn't have to go through these steps again. The control line serves another purpose after beginning the installation, which we'll get into later. When rolling out your underlayment opinions vary on whether or not it should be overlapped or not.

Some claim if it is overlapped one can actually see a telegraphing effect after the floor is installed. In other words, small rises occur every 45 inches where the two layers overlap. Personally I never paid attention to it, and the National Wood Flooring Association calls for overlapping anyway.

Rolling Out the Underlayment

We also have a section on using rosin paper for those that may have heard this is the way to go. Felt paper can be messy, because it is the same stuff roofers use when drying in a Cutting felt paper to fit roof, or before the shingles go on. We want to begin rolling out the paper parallel to wall #1. When rolling, start at one end and unroll to the other while keeping about

12 inches away from the wall. This will keep the roll from blackening your freshly painted walls.

Once you're near the end, cut off enough for it to cover, remove the roll and push the long sheet into place or butted to the wall and trim on both ends with a utility knife. Repeat these steps across the room, while stapling the underlayment to the subfloor. No need to overdo the staples. All we want to do is keep it stationary so our control line stays put. You could finish off the room and let the other areas go until you're ready.

Go To: Starting The Hardwood Installation - nailing the first few rows, expansion
Back To: Installing Hardwood With Fasteners - Introduction

Related Pages In This Series:

• Starting The Hardwood Installation - nailing the first few rows, expansion
• Installing Hardwood Against Angled Walls
• Hardwood Runs Into Other Rooms. How To - staying straight
• Change Direction Of Hardwood Floor - reversing

Related Pages:

• Rosin Or Felt Paper?
• Solid Hardwood Floors - different types
• Hardwood Floor Nailer - staplers too
• Expansion Gaps and Hardwood Floors
• Hardwood Flooring Humidity
• How Many Nails or Staples Are Needed?
• Installing Wood Floors On An Angle