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Installing The Stair Risers
We
discovered this builder took some shortcuts by using
1/2" plywood for the risers that did not have a
supporting system in the center of the step. All step
risers had to be corrected to provide better stability
after the hardwood is installed. Without doing so
chances are good we would have a squeak or two. The
image shows the first step riser replaced, but not the
remainder due to time constraints of the author.
Always keep that broom or vacuum nearby for cleanup! If
you're using a tarp or similar on a completed section of
hardwood, always keep tools, scrap pieces, nails, and
screws out of the work area to prevent damage. It only
takes one incident and you may have a nice gouge in the
floor if walked on.
To
install the riser material, chances are very good the
drywall or stair stringer will not be straight. Our
suggestion is to use scrap pieces to scribe the angle.
In the example below and right, our first course was a
perfect 90º on both sides of the riser. The second piece
however, was not perfect and required scribing to get
the angle right.
Random Length Or Full Length
By the way, we're using engineered 9/16" x 3" plank
manufactured by Mannington. With the riser measuring 6
3/4" from the bottom we'll be installing two full
courses (rows) and a small cut-off for the remaining.
There are two methods of layout when installing plank or
strip on steps. It will depend on the product selected
and what you view as more appealing. If you desire full
length boards on every step and riser it's suggested to
find a product that offers this. Many engineered
manufacturers produce random lengths where you'll be
getting pieces from 12" to 48 inches. Others offer one
common length such as 36" or 48" in every box.
Tight Fits Against Stair Stringer
When
trying to achieve the tightest fit against the stringers
or drywall, so as to eliminate caulking or unsightly
trim, one trick is to bevel the backside of the piece.
This technique is best achieved with a compound miter
saw set at a 30 - 45º angle. You could also set up a
belt sander to remove, or carefully cut the bevel with a
table saw. Beveling allows easier engaging of tight
fitted boards against the stringers or drywall reducing
scraping of paint.
Folks, if you want the job done right you may be making
3-4 trips back to the sawing area to get one piece cut
right. Staircases are a major focal point in the home
and people will notice the flaws.
Nailing The Stringer Boards
Once
we have the desired fit for the first two rows it's time
for nailing. Renting or buying a pneumatic nailer will
speed the job considerably. In this case we're using a
Senco finish nailer that shoots 15 gauge 2" nails. Some
of the thinner 3/8" products may have a hard time
talking a 15 gauge nail. Our suggestion in this case
would be 18 gauge wire nails but double up on the
number used for better holding. It's also not a bad idea
to a dab some construction adhesive on the back of the
boards being installed. I know what you're thinking
while looking at the pic below..."what happened to the
baseboard? What a mess!" This will also be replaced once
the ceramic tile is installed.
For the
first course we want to face nail into the riser
substrate, three nails across the width near the bottom
of the board. To further secure, blind nail into
the top of the board (tongue facing up) at a 45º angle.
How many nails? It doesn't really matter as they will
not be visible once the next row is in place.
Make sure our blind nailing doesn't interfere with
engaging the next board by way of tongue and groove. If
in doubt set all nails with a nail punch. |
