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Scribing Last Board On Riser
Now we
have the first two courses installed against the first
riser. For the final small piece that will fit just under
the stair nosing, measure the distance from one side to
the other and cut the piece to be used on the chop saw.
Fit it into the area and scribe from the backside how
much will be removed.
Keeping
your pencil flat to the substrate, run a line across the
backside of the hardwood. It may take a few tries to get
the hang of it but it's important this cut be right on
the money. Otherwise the stair nosing itself will not
sit proper and could eventually sag or squeak.
Rip
Last Board With Table Saw
I've
found the table saw to be a more effective power tool
for this cut, however a good quality saber or jig saw
will work just as well. Table saws are not to be taken
lightly as these cuts have to be done freehand. It's
important the working area be clean and free ob
onstructions. This is not the place for kids to be
running in and out either. Be sharp; if you're tired, do
it another day. Always wear eye protection.
In our illustration Tony makes our rip cut on the
outside of the line, or actually shaving off part of the
pencil mark. The area marked X (barely visible) is the
part that will not be used. Once you have the desired
cut, take it back to the working area for a dry fit into
place. If it's not flat or flush with the tread
substrate, corrections will have to be made.
By keeping a scrap piece of stair nosing around, you
should get an idea whether or not it is sitting stable.
Remember, any rocking or a loose fit is likely to cause
problems at a later date.
Engage your final piece or pieces and nail at a 45º into
the substrate riser, preferably in the middle of the
material. Again these nails won't be seen, so the more
the merrier, but don't overdo it. It's important to keep
to the angle penetration, otherwise the nail may not
engage. Set all nails that may not be flush.
Measure & Fit Nosing
Using a
piece of scrap nosing, we have to determine the cut on
both sides of the step itself. Like the riser, the
angles are likely to be different. In this case Tony has
the left hand side marked and ready for cutting.
It's off
to the chop saw again to get our angles right. When
making these cuts, mark the angle you've found so you
don't have to start over again. Once you feel they're
right, it's back to the steps for another dry fit. Most
of the time adjustments will have to be made. Don't feel
alone if you've made 3-4 trips to the cutting area. Some
of the best do the same.
Now comes the tricky part. One side angles out at 1 1/2º
and the other in by 3/4º. Set your tape measure where
the front of the nosing will eventually rest and measure
to each side. It's wise to make a pencil mark on the
stringer or drywall for this location. Measure not once,
but twice the distance from each side. Add an eighth of
an inch until you get the hang of it. The worst thing
you can do is cut it short. By cutting long you
can always go back to the chop saw and cut more. |