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Rip Cutting Risers With Table Saw - Page Seven
Scribing Last Board On Riser
Now we have the first two courses installed against the first riser. For the final small piece that will fit just under the stair nosing, measure the distance from one side to
the other and cut the piece to be used on the chop saw. Fit it into the area and scribe from the backside.
Keeping your pencil flat to the substrate, run a line across the backside of the hardwood. It may take a few tries to get the hang of it but it's important this cut be right on the money. Otherwise the stair nosing itself will not sit proper and could eventually sag or squeak.
Rip Last Board With Table Saw
I've found the table saw to be a more effective power tool for this cut, however a good quality saber or jig saw will work just as well. Table saws are not to be taken lightly as these cuts have to be done freehand. It's important the working area be clean and free of obstructions. This is not the place for kids to be running in and out either. Be sharp; if you're
tired, do it another day. Always wear eye protection.
In our illustration Tony makes our rip cut on the outside of the line, or actually shaving off part of the pencil mark. The area marked X (barely visible) is the part that will not be used. Once you have the desired cut, take it back to the working area for a dry fit into place. If it's not flat or flush with the tread substrate, corrections will have to be made.
By keeping a scrap piece of stair nosing around, you should get an idea whether or not it is sitting stable. Remember, any rocking or a loose fit is likely to cause problems at a later date.
Engage your final piece or pieces and nail at a 45º into the substrate riser, preferably in the middle of the material. Again these nails won't be seen, so the more the merrier, but don't overdo it. It's important to keep to the angle penetration, otherwise the nail may not engage. Set all nails that may not be flush.
Measure & Fit Nosing 
Using a piece of scrap nosing, we have to determine the cut on both sides of the step itself. Like the riser,the angles are likely to be different. In this case Tony has the left hand side marked and ready for cutting.
It's off to the chop saw again to get our angles right. When making these cuts, mark the angle you've found so you don't have to start over again. Once you feel they're right, it's back to the steps for another dry fit. Most of the time adjustments will have to be made. Don't feel alone if you've made 3-4 trips to the cutting area. Some of the best do the same.
Now comes the tricky part. One side angles out at 1 1/2º and the other in by 3/4º. Set your tape measure where the front of the nosing will eventually rest and measure to each side. It's wise to make a pencil mark on the stringer or drywall for this location. Measure not once, but twice the distance from each side. Add an eighth of an inch until you get the hang of it. The worst thing you can do is cut it short. By cutting long you can always go back to the chop saw and cut more.
Go To: Gluing Hardwood Steps
Back To: Installing Hardwood On Stairs. Introduction
Other Pages In This Series:
• Measure For Hardwood Stairs
• Remove Carpet & Pad On Steps
• Remove Stair Bull Nose - Staples On Steps
• Mortised Hardwood Stairs - Fix Squeaks
• Installing Stair Risers
• Rip Cutting Risers With Table Saw
• Gluing Hardwood Steps