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Installing The Planks
On The Step
Getting that stair nosing
to fit tight is the hardest part of any job. We
don't have the benefit of beveling the backside
as we did with our planks because it will be
noticeable on the underside once it's installed.
In this case Tony made several trips back to the
miter saw to get both sides the way he wanted
them.
Working on the tread
itself, the procedures are the same as far as
fitting the planks, however the boards are
reversing direction to engage the nosing that
has the groove facing out. In the
example on the
right you'll notice the drywall bows in, then
out from the nosing to the next riser.
The step itself will take two full board widths
and approximately 2 5/8" for a final row. It's
important to note at this time when working with
stair skirting or stringers, some may be not
attached firmly to the drywall themselves.
Placing too much force when making a tight fit
will throw off work already done on previous
steps as you work your way up. Keep an eye on
work completed and adjust accordingly.
For the steps themselves
(and the risers) we're trying to avoid top
nailing at all costs. Dry fit all pieces until
you get the desired appearance. Remove all
pieces placing them in an ordered fashion nearby
so you know what order they go back. Warning!
Don't engage the final row tight when dry
fitting. You will never be able to remove it
without damage.
Spread Glue On Step
To create a step without top nailing, use a
urethane spread adhesive. In this example we've
spread the glue
with a trowel notch size equivalent to 50 square
feet per gallon. You could use construction
adhesive from a large caulking gun, but complete
coverage is more desirable
When placing your pieces
back into place, avoid getting fingers into the
adhesive as much as possible. Cleanup as you go.
Urethane based adhesives are extremely gooey and
messy. Once cured, they are very difficult to
remove. Mineral spirits and a rag works to keep
the area clean on most all prefinished brands
but not waxed types.
Attaching Planks On
Step
In some cases if you don't
have a tight fit on the stair nosing it may be
necessary to top nail (nosing) in order to keep
it in place or from moving. When placing the
pieces back, always keep an eye, or feel on how
the nosing fits against the riser area; it
should be tight.
Our last row is the key to the entire step. In
order for the next riser area to work right; it
has to cover the last board installed on the
step. Our measurement on the last board calls
for 3/8" of material to be removed or
thereabouts.
In many cases you may need to tap the last piece
into place with a rubber mallet or by using a
scrap piece
and a hammer. Using a pry bar we tighten up (pry
back) all rows until they meet our expectations.
At this time the last row will be top nailed,
but we fasten nearest to the edge of last the
board. Don't get too close. It can split once
the nail is engaged.
By scribing a line the
thickness of what will go on the risers, you'll
get a better idea of the area that will be
covered. Barely visible, you'll notice the line
in the image to the left. Engineered products
will not split as easily as solid products. For
thinner 3/8" solid products, chances are good
the top nailing has to be visible otherwise you
will get splits. Fill with a matching material
provided by the manufacturer.
That basically sums up the procedure on how to
install strip or plank on steps. For remaining
steps, follow the procedures already mentioned.
Always start from the bottom of each step
(riser), then the step itself and continue up
the staircase. |
